Twin-cylinder four-stroke air-cooled rebirth of a Ducati 500SL

These are the markings on the stock seals from my Marzocchi M1R forks.

(in order of assembly)

Dust seal: Marzocchi 41.7 Rolf 4

Metal washer

Stop ring

Oil seal: Marzocchi 3 41.7 55 10 10.5 RP Rolf

 

In celebration of being back online and on my new server, I thought I would take a pass at making a new logo for the site. I tried to tie in the new Corsa shield design with all of the old Guigaro-designed logo from the 80’s. Enjoy!

My new Ducati Pantah logo

painted

daniela

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Image courtesy of Ducati S.p.A

Markings indicate ZEM type 3504 64.
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Unscrew the fixing screws and pull out the starter motor. My Ducati Alazzurra 650 starter type is SU022.

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ducati_650_starter02

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When you remove the connecting rods, be sure to mark the top and bottom halves with permanent marker. This way, when you reassemble them you can guarantee that they will be correctly balanced. Don’t forget to mark which one is attached to the vertical cylinder and which one is attached to the horizontal cylinder. On the Ziploc bag, draw the arrangement of the connecting rods in relation to a marking on the crankshaft as well. When you go to put them back in a few days-weeks-months-years it will help ease the fear that you are not reassembling them correctly.

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Markings on top of standard pistons pulled from a 1986(?) Ducati (Cagiva) 650 Alazzurra engine have the following markings:

  • 82-67677A => (arrow) on the top
  • “A” logo on the inside
  • Made of aluminum
  • 3 rings (2 sharp metal, 1 with a spring in it)

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After unpacking the engine from the shipping crate, I started by degreasing some of the main parts that I could separate. I took off the engine covers by using allen sockets and a 3/8″ socket wrench. The cylinder heads were already separated and in a different box. The clutch was already dismantled. In fact, I don’t think many of the parts that came with my engine as a whole were actually part of the same engine. No matter. They are all from a 650 and I am not doing a “historically accurate” restoration.

I used a citrus degreaser and a plastic scrub brush that I found in a hardware store near the paint stripping section. It has nice short stiff bristles, but won’t scratch the aluminum. I used a whole can of degreaser on just these 4 parts, so I would suggest 3 cans if you plan on doing the whole engine.

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Clean the parts away from where you will be working. That run-off never really goes away. It smells nice, but it is real messy and thin melting grease seems to get everywhere. You can see pics of my top-notch restoration clean-room under the porch here at my house:

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It would be great if someone could fill in the gap on how to start degreasing and prepping your engine when you remove it from the bike. Mine was already partly-disassembled so I am missing some steps. Please e-mail me if you remember to take some pics before starting! Thanks.